Erdem, 2008 Fall/Winter Collection (Photo: Sølve Sundsbø/Art + Commerce);
Marta Jakubowski, “MA Collection”, 2014 (Photo: Bror Ivefeldt)

Design Museum is set to unveil one of the most comprehensive exhibitions on contemporary fashion culture in the UK to date. “REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion”, the exhibition is scheduled to open in September in conjunction with London Fashion Week. Showcasing a diverse array of eye-catching designs from the last 30 years, the exhibition aims to illuminate many aspects of the fashion world that remain unknown to the public, including insights into how fashion careers take shape and the opportunities that London provides for the budding creatives.

Co-curated by Sarah Mower and Rebecca Lewin in collaboration with the British Fashion Council (BFC), the exhibition also marks the 30th anniversary of the BFC’s NEWGEN program, which has been instrumental in propelling young talents in fashion design onto the global stage. The initiative has supported the career development of over 300 designers, including Lee Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Charles Jeffrey, Christopher Raeburn, Erdem, Henry Holland, Kim Jones, J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, Molly Goddard, Roksanda, Simone Rocha, Stuart Vevers, Priya Ahluwalia, Saul Nash, Grace Wales Bonner, and Bianca Saunders to date. The exhibition showcases nearly 100 designs from collections that have catapulted designers onto the global stage, with many leaving an indelible mark on the history of popular culture, unveiling the profound impact that NEWGEN designers have had on the global fashion industry.

In the exhibition, while closely examining the striking, eccentric, and radical designs that changed the course of the fashion world, we will also witness the career stories of the creators of these designs through movies, drawings, memorabilia, and previously unseen archival material. The museum worked with the designers themselves to select the most interesting material from their personal archives. London served as a school for these designers, a fulcrum for their careers, where some completed their education, others showcased their first collections, and still others established professional networks...

One of the most iconic pieces featured in the exhibition is the “swan dress” worn by Björk at the 2001 ceremony, designed by Marjan Pejoski – a truly memorable piece in Oscar history... This dress has only been exhibited twice before, both occasions in New York. However, this marks the first time it is being showcased in Britain, the city where it was originally designed.

Visitors will also have the opportunity to see the neon designs from Christopher Kane’s inaugural runway collection, the upcycled Union Jack jacket by Russell Sage, famously worn by Kate Moss for Vogue, and the blue ruffled dress by Molly Goddard that went viral on Instagram when Rihanna wore it. Additionally, Steven Stokey Daley’s collection, created as a newly graduated designer, for Harry Styles’ “Golden” music video, and a replica of the HARRI-branded inflatable latex suit worn by Sam Smith at this year’s BRIT Awards, will also be on display.

“REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion” will be open from September 16, 2023, to February 11, 2024, inviting visitors to delve into 30 highly productive years of London fashion and to explore the youthful energy, creative vision, and rebellious spirit at the heart of the NEWGEN program.


Written by: Editorial Team